Land rover discovery 2 rear windows not working

This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More. Welcome To LandyZone! Cookies Welcome Guest. Joined: Dec 26, Posts: 12 Likes Received: 0. Hi there I'm trying to track down a fault on this Disco I'm selling.

The rear windows don't wind up or down, either at the console or on the doors. A bit of searching reveals a common dry joint problem at the window ECU, so I went behind the glove box on mine looking for this ECU, and haven't been able to find it.

What I found instead was two single-pole wires, and a third twin-pole cable, not connected to anything. I wonder if something has been removed, and if anyone can tell me what? It almost looks as though the two black wires should be plugged into the yellow cable, and the combination plugged into the firewall somewhere, but I'm not going to risk that until I know exactly how it's supposed to be wired.

Is the rear window fix a solution for the Disco 1, and not the series 2? Last edited: Jan 3, Parrot of Doom , Jan 3, The Disco 2 doesnt have a window ECU Thanks mate, I'm on it now. Don't suppose you know what those wires do? I cant tell u that on the first view If u want to investigate that u have to dig deep in RAVE electical library, diagrams and connector views.

Ok I found some fairly horrific wiring under the steering wheel: The car has an aftermarket stereo so I think perhaps someone has bodged things together.

I haven't a clue what does what. I pulled the 30A fuse for the rear windows, that's fine. The click is the motor inbuilt circuit breaker doing its job. So a click sound from the door usually means the motor and all the wiring is good, and the problem usually revolves around a binding window regulator.

But there are exceptions, sometimes the motor may be clicking and the regulator is good. The only repair here is to replace the motor.

But no noise at all at the door and but a clicking noise at the glove box, as discussed earlier, does suggest a problem with the motor or the wiring. After removing the door cover screws, remove the small black door opening trim, then pull the door cover firmly to remove. The voltage will show minus when the window switch is toggled one way and plus voltage the other. Broken wiring in the door loom is very common, constant flexing as the door opens and closes causes them to break.

The window regulator is the mechanical assembly the makes the window go up and down, they give lots of trouble. Problems usually arise from general wear and tear, and a lack of adequate lubricant on the window runners. The regulator moves in a scissor-type action. Nylon bushings on the end of the scissor arms run inside rails or runners, they wear out, break and derail. When the arms derail, the window stops working, and often the untethered arm will get bent out of shape by the window motor.

Broken spot welds are another common fault with the regulator. Replacing the regulator is the only fix here. John Cunningham is an Automotive Technician and writer on Rustyautos. My passion is cars. I use my knowledge and experience to write articles that help fellow gear-heads with all aspects of car ownership, including buying advice, maintenance, and troubleshooting.

Posted January 14, Posted January 15, Where can I find the rear window ecu in the series II? PaulMc Posted January 16, Posted January 16, Posted January 17, Strange is it not. Join the conversation You can post now and register later. Reply to this topic Insert image from URL.

Go to topic listing.